Filling Fret Slots Ends

Filling Fret Slots Ends 4,1/5 9995 reviews

When it comes to installing frets each luthier has his or her own preferences on methods and tools to use. However, If you haven’t built your first guitar yet the conflicting information from various sources can be very confusing. It doesn’t have to be complicated though, and in this article, my goal is to look at two of the main tools I use to install frets and their respective strengths and weaknesses. For an in-depth step by step demonstrate of my personal methods, as well as an explanation on why I choose to use my current methods and the thinking behind my approach, check out my guitar making video course: Fretwork Mastery Part 1.

Guitar Fret Installation Tools

Just wondering what the latest is for filling fret slot ends on instruments with unbound fingerboards. In the past I've packed them with ebony dust and then used touches of CA glue. I once also used one of those waxy crayon things that you can buy for 'repairing' dings in furniture. That's still going strong after nearly 20 years on my first. 7: Fill the slots with a hardwood laminate. Now, these can be found at most hobby shops, on eBay, or you can make them yourself if you have acess to a thicknessing drum sander, or you're really patient with a sanding block. You'll probably end up hand-sanding the laminate a little bit, though.

Here in this article I will be showing and discussing the two main tools I use for installing the fret wire into the fingerboards of my guitars. Although there are several tools involved in the process, I’ll be focusing here on just on the two main tools which are the Fret Press and the Dead Blow Fret hammer.

Slots

When installing frets, the goal is to get the fret wire seated as tightly and solidly as possible for the easiest fret crowning and setup work and ultimately the best sound, playability, and long-term stability from the guitar. The fret work is one of the most important parts of your guitar and has to look and feel good to the player. Most

Most luthiers prefer one type of fret installation or the other, they will opt for a fret press method or a hammer-in method, and there are definitely some advantages to each. Personally, I like to use a little of both to make kind of a hybrid approach. To understand this a little better and maybe even help you get some ideas on which is best for you, let’s take a look at the challenges/requirements of fret installation and then look at each tool separately and their respective benefits that we can use to our advantage in getting our frets better seated and improving our guitars.

Fret Press VS Hammer-In Guitar Fretting

To get the fret wire into the fret slot we have to apply pressure in some way. We can hit it with something, or we can force it in with a press. ( we could also make the slot wider so the fret wire can just be glued and clamped in, but that is outside the scope of this article) Each method has its own unique advantages and disadvantages, so let’s break it down to get a better idea of which one might work better for you. Remember, there isn’t a right or wrong way. It’s just a matter of experimenting to find the way that fits you and your style the best, and gives you the best results for your specific applications and your guitars.

Hammer In Fretting

Most people start out the guitar building journey with just a simple hammer for fretting their guitars. It does require some experience to get the technique right, but in a short while it can be mastered if an analytical approach is taken. The big problem with this method is that the force of the hammer blow can cause the fret ends to spring up and keep them from seating properly. A specialized dead-blow fret hammer can really help.

Pros

  • Relatively inexpensive to get a basic hammer
  • Easy to use out over the guitar body
  • Works great for refret jobs and on finished guitars

Cons

  • If not done properly fret ends often spring up
  • Very loud (hearing protection is a must)
  • Nerve wracking to bang on a delicate, finished guitar

Guitar Fret Press

A fret press can take on several forms and be a more elaborate jigged system, or just a simple device that can be used with a drill press (the latter is what I use). While this can require a little more setup, in it’s simplest form it’s still not very expensive and in my opinion can be very helpful especially to someone who hasn’t had a lot of experience perfecting their hammer technique. The great thing about using a fret press is that it holds the fret at the proper radius while being forced into place stabilizing the fret ends among other benefits.

Pros

  • More even fret installation(ends don’t spring)
  • Faster installation
  • Quite (no banging)

Filling Fret Slots Ends Double Diamond

Cons

  • Most expensive than just a hammer
  • Harder to do over the guitar body or on a finished neck (but possible)
  • Doesn’t compensate for slight variations in fingerboard radius.

Final Thoughts

If you have a super tight budget then you can just use the hammer and you’ll be just fine. My advice is to slot some scrap wood and with some extra wire, practice hammering in the frets to see how different approaches affect the final outcome such as starting in the center of the wire and working toward the ends or starting at one end and working toward the other.

If you can though, using a fret press is really great, and can produce great results and even speed up your workflow ( and to me it’s kind of fun too). I personally use both tools, as I demonstrate in my guitar fretting course. I use various different treatments to prepare the frets, then press the fret in, and then follow up with the hammer to get the best possible seating of the wire. The system I use is for me the best combination and helps me take advantage of the strengths of each tool while minimizing their respective weaknesses.

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This post is a bit of afollow-up to the post about installing frets in an acoustic guitar (here: http://diystrat.blogspot.com/2013/06/refretting-acoustic-guitar.html).You see, in this post, we’ll be covering filling the little holes left ateither end of the fret slots after you install new frets. This isn’t anentirely necessary job and a lot of people would probably be happy to stopafter installing the new frets. Playability won’t be affected at all, but itcertainly makes things look a bit tidier if you do this after a refret.
Firstly, let me showyou what I’m talking about. These frets have just been installed. As you cansee, there’s a little gap in the wood at each end of the fret slot now.
When we sanded thefretboard down while doing the refret, we made sure to save the rosewood dust.This (and some super glue) is what we’ll use to refill the holes.
After removing thestrings, we mask off the neck so that the glue doesn’t go anywhere itshouldn’t. I’ve used painter’s tape here, but I’d recommend using electricianstape usually, as it’s a lot less likely to be affected by super glue (more onthat later). You will see that we have masked one side only. This was a timething, the details of which I won’t go into, but normally you’d want to maskboth sides at the same time, just for the sake of efficiency.
With the holes angledup the way, we pick up some of the rosewood dust and pack it into the hole.



After brushing off anyexcess powder (ideally you can put this excess powder back into your store ofrosewood powder), we saturate theremaining powder with super glue. Be careful not to add so much that it startsrunning down your guitar neck. At the same time, make sure it’s enough tosaturate the rosewood dust and not just sit on top.
Now, it’s not the endof the world if you let the super glue dry completely, but I’d highly recommendthat you (carefully) remove the masking tape while the super glue is stilltacky. Otherwise, you might find yourself having to deal with stuck-down tapein places (as alluded to earlier, electrician’s tape is a bit more forgivinghere).

Filling Fret Slots Ends No Deposit

Once the glue hascompletely dried, it’s time to file off any excess. Make sure you file away fromthe fret ends when doing this, otherwise you might inadvertently lift a fret.
On this particular guitar I’ve decided to remove any and all lacquer from the rosewoodalong the sides of the fretboard (which would match the exposed rosewood on the face of the fretboard), although you could always re-lacquer it ifyou were so inclined.

I’m adding a littlebit of lemon oil here to give the rosewood a bit of a shine, but will leave itthere.
And here’s the end result: